Beyond belief

I was bemused when the café at the base of the HM@S apartments, whose penthouse is currently asking a price beyond belief, was renamed from Bellezain to simply Boat. But that was considerably more creative than the frankly dismal name chosen for the latest incarnation of what was, until recently, the charming Harold Holt espresso lounge.

Staking a, not very, bold claim to be "Beyond Basic", the self declared speciality (or specialty if you prefer) for this beach-facing café is their coffee; which is a considerable disservice to the, clearly accomplished and ambitious, chef. With a wide selection of beans, some heavyweight brewing equipment and an enthusiastic barista, the coffee's certainly not basic, but how does it compare to the best of Bay Street?

In a favourable wind the outside seats retain their priceless position, whilst inside the bar's been rotated to face the bay and there's an Asian twist to the now black, orange and turquoise décor. However there's still an air of familiarity to the furniture (and indeed some of the faces). Perhaps the name's intended to prevent expectations rising to astoundment levels of anticipation, as then I think you might be a little disappointed. But then you'd probably leave pleasantly surprised by the food all the same, especially if you succumb to one of the many inventive naughties on the counter.

Coffee: $3.80
Beans: Monk Bodhi Dharma
Machine: Slayer
Juice: $3.50 (freshly squeezed)
Eggs: $15.00 (as part of a big breakfast)
Bookings: 9646 8242